Cape Scott Lighthouse: Bears, Flat Tire & Moonlit Beaches
A midnight flat tire on Vancouver Island’s loneliest road. Rescued by a bear hunter. We hiked more than 50km – with a bear trailing us, and more – a cub peeking from behind a tree. We followed wolf tracks, slept beneath lighthouse skies, and watched the sunset blaze over the coast. Well, even the “Graveyard of the Pacific” has a tender heart.
Beautiful sunset view from the tower. The Canadian flag waved proudly, a reminder of the countless ships rescued from this Graveyard of the Pacific.
We saw four bears. One – massive, calm, followed us for a while, unhurried. Another, a cute cub, scrambled up a tree, spotted us, and shyly hid on the far side.
We saw many fresh wolf tracks on the beach.
We walked over 50 km in two days, strong pace. Stayed at remote Guise Bay under a full, glowing moon.
New angle of BC – calm endless sand, scattered with sand dollars and pearl shells.
The adventure began with a flat tire – so close to San Josef parking, deep night, no cell service, no tools in my car, no passing cars. A bear hunter appeared as a miracle, rescued on that dark, lonely road. Patched the tire, generously offered to stay in his cabin rather than sleeping in the car.
We woke to an eagle’s shadow crossing the skylight. And I swear… we heard a bear’s breath outside the door.
Want to picture the northern tip of Vancouver Island? Winding, remote road lined with half-burnt cars, yellow tape fluttering. Feels like where escaped criminals vanish – where neighbors don’t ask questions, just mutter, “Bury this tourist now or wait till spring when the ground gets wet?” You really don’t want to stuck here with a flat tire.
First impressions lie. In a place where shadows whisper and roads forget kindness, a stranger steps out of the dark and proves this wilderness has a huge heart.
